THE ICONIC NATURE OF A SHIRT: THE CHAMBRAY SHIRT

by egrstyle

Le origini dello Chambray risalgono al 1595 presso la  città di Cambrai, nel nord della Francia.
Lo chambray è un tessuto di cotone leggero ma molto resistente. Differisce dal denim in quanto non è,  a differenza del denim, un tessuto in twill o a saia (dal tipico effetto diagonale), ma  presenta un’armatura a tela con fili colorati in ordito e fili bianchi in trama che creano un particolare effetto iridescente.
Lo chambray sta vivendo nelle ultime stagioni una vera e propria rinascita dovuta prevalentemente ai trend del fashion, che lo rivedono protagonista.
Il primo diffuso  utilizzo dello chambray  risale alla seconda guerra mondiale, quando venne adottato come parte dell’uniforme della marina militare americana, composta da pantaloni scuri in denim, camicia in chambray a manica lunga o corta e t-shirt bianca e maglia in lana blu.
 

Chambray fabric is thought to originate from Cambrai in France many centuries ago as far back as 1595. It differs from denim in that it is not a twill fabric, when it is woven – the warp and the weft of the fabric cross equally giving it a 1 x 1 fabric structure. This is known as a chambray structure. This is partly responsible for its lighter appearance as the weft, the lighter unbleached thread, appears on the surface of the fabric. Both sides of chambray are identical meaning it has no right or wrong side. 
Chambray is having a huge  resurgence recently partly due to the increase of  trends in fashion. It was famously adopted by the US navy in 1901 right through to World War II. The uniform consisted of darker denim bottoms with lighter long or short sleeve chambray shirts with the addition of  a white tee and a blue wool sweater.

(Nella foto qui sopra, scattata presso la base militare di Corpus Christi in Texas nell’agosto del 1942, un addetto al rifornimento aereo indossa pantaloni in denim blu, camicia in chambray ed il classico berreto della marina).

(In the photo above, taken at Naval Air Base, Corpus Christi, Texas in August 1942, an aircraft mechanic is fueling a Navy plane dressed in the blue denim trousers and short sleeved chambray shirt topped by a swabbie hat.)

 

 Il modello originale presentava 2 tasche su petto con pattina o semplicemente un asola per il bottone.  Le cuciture in filo bianco si scurivano gradualmente dopo ogni lavaggio ed il tessuto si schiariva a contatto con l’acqua di mare creando il tipico colore blu medio dello chambray.

The 2 breast pockets had buttoned flaps or sometimes button through pockets. When the shirts were new they would have bright white stitching which would darken as the shirts were washed through dye and dirt as would the fabric itself lighten through laundering and contact with the salty sea water. Ending in a salty medium blue colour. 

 

THE COOLEST CHAMBRAY TODAY

  

Camicia in chambray blu medio Haversack, collo club, bottoni  bianchi.
Perfetta se abbinata ad un paio di denim piu’ scuri o ad un pantalone chino beige medio in cotone lavato

Haversack middle blue chambray shirt with club collar and white traditional buttons.
Wear it with a  dark blue selvedge denim or mid beige washed cottons chino slacks

Camicia in chambray medio con doppio taschino con bottone e collo half cutaway morbido, Reiss 1971

Reiss 1971 bouble breast  pockets chambray shirt,unlined  half cutaway collar

Un piccolo dettaglio sartoriale: la mosca

A sartorial detail: the gusset

 

Uno splendido vintage chambray di Ralph Lauren con club collar e bottoni in madreperla

An amazing  vintage Ralph Lauren chambray with club collar and mother of pearl buttons

 

 L’autentico taschino con pattina

The authentic  flap pocket

 

WEARING CHAMBRAY…